Before starting breeding I had kept rats numerous time over the years and it was a decision that I didn’t make on a whim. Before pairing my first rats I read a lot, I mean a lot of Information from numerous sources. I wanted to make sure I was making the right decision and was going to breed for the right reason. I am continuing to learn new things and will always look in to new was to improve the health and well-being of all my rats. I also considered the welfare of my rats and didn’t want to put them under any unnecessary stress.
I didn’t want to be just another back yard breeder. I want to produce great pets for people to enjoy as much as I care for my own rats. Each rat that is born into my rattery is cared for from the moment they are born until the day they leave. I am a member of the NFRS (National Fancy Rat Society) and hope to become a listed breeder in time.
I have and will continue to only breed rats that have extremely good temperaments and love being handled, don’t show aggression to other rats or people and are of a healthy weight. I also take into consideration the individuals condition and general wellness. Then I consider the variety of rats I have and what markings and colours I want to achieve.
I now have home bred rats that I will be continuing to line breed with to develop good Russian Blues and Black Rats. I will be working to bring out the lovely blue colour of ‘grey’ rats as well as trying to breed very dark bold black rats, that maintain their colour. I also have Champagne and Himalayan lines. I will continue to develop my hooded rat lines along side these to have hooded rats with a clearly defined hood and perfect stripe down their backs.
My breeding pairs are selected for health and temperament. Currently breeding Hooded, Roan, but I am developing lines of Russian Blues Black Berkshire and self .
All my rats are handled on a daily basis. I treat every rat as if they are my own pets, so you will have a friendly, inquisitive, happy rat.
My daughter also helps with their care giving them treats and teaching them tricks so you may select a baby that could have a hidden talent.
When I sell a rat the story doesn’t end there. I try and make contact with the adopters to ensure the rats have settled in and that they are happy with them. I encourage People to keep in touch getting updates on their care and how happy people are with them. Each rat comes with its own identity card with its unique reference, date of birth, parents and markings. This will help me track litters should any problems arise and I keep detailed records of all rats.
So you’re almost ready for your new pet rat. I am happy to answer any questions you may have about the rats available or future litters. I will also ask you some questions about their new home and care.
- rats can be reserved from litters and won’t be offered until they have been weaned. However should should problems arise you will be offered a new selection.
- I won’t sell single rats, they must go as pairs or small groups.
- I will never sell a rat that is unwell or in poor condition.
- All rats will be a minimum of 6 weeks old before they leave the rattery possibly longer to ensure they are ready and healthy.
- My rats are for pets only I try to ensure that they are handled well and they are looked after.
- I don’t allow my rats to be bred unless written agreement has been given before purchase.
-I’m happy to provide aftercare and answer any questions you may have about their health, diet etc if I don’t know the answer I’ll directed you to credible sources to get your answer.
Rats make amazing pets, Some people refer to them as tiny dogs due to their loyalty, intelligence and personalities. A healthy rat will interact with you by coming up to the front of the cage when you enter the room, try and be the first to have a smooth when the cage is opened without trying to escape. They really do love us humans.
Rats are intelligent and due to this they need lots of different things in their cage to explore, play with and also so they can have their own space. Over time they can learn their name and as be taught tricks.
Unlike similar rodents rats are a social creatures and prefer to be kept in pairs or small groups. If you intend to keep large groups it is best to plan a rolling group. This is where you obtain pairs of similar aged rats over a filing period. This will hopefully allow you to enjoy your rats for a longer time.
Contrary to popular belief rats are very clean animals. They wash themselves regularly and will even wash after you‘ve touched them. They can be trained to use a litter tray you will find a spot in their cage where they will always go to the toilet. This is an ideal place to put a tray, a smooth rock (pee rock) can also be added to the tray to encourage its use.
If you choose a rat as your pet you won’t be let down. the more you interact with your rats the more rewarded they will be.
Rats normally live be 2-3years sometimes longer, it’s important that you look after your rat during this time. Although rats are cheap to obtain and relatively low cost to keep they still require certain care routines.
Their cage must be of a suitable size they require with plenty of room to move, climb and jump inside their cage. Glass tanks are not suitable for rats they need well ventilated wire cages. This stops the build up of ammonia from their urine which can lead to respiratory problems.
Rats benefit from time outside their cage, if you have a timid rat or a rat that may nip you in their cage they sometimes change their personalities outside a cage. If you have a room with no escape routes or an enclosure you can use to allow them free roaming then this will benefit them and allow you to interact with your rat as well.
The more you handle your rat the better they’ll become, it also gives you the opportunity to check your rat over. Smooth them all over checking for any lumps or bumps that shouldn’t be there. You can check their ears, eyes and mouth ensuring they are clear of mites, have clear eyes and their teeth are kept trim and straight. If you discover any anomalies then get it checked by a Vet who specialises in rats.
Wheels and rodent balls aren’t normally used for fancy rats, you require a very large wheel if you use one and it has to be enclosed to stop any limbs or tails being trapped. Using small wheels can lead to curvature if the spine in rats. Rodent balls inhibit the rats natural senses which it relies on to move around. They don’t have great eyesight so use their smell, whiskers and touch to run around all of these are impeded in a ball.
You need to keep their cage clean, it is recommended not to over clean a cage as it encourages your rats to lay down their scent if you overclean. A regular spot clean is best which involves wiping down surfaces with an unscented baby wipe or wet cloth, removing any heavily soiled bedding or litter trays. You should then do a deep clean once a week where you remove everything from the cage and clean it with a suitable pet cleaner.
Everyone wants a happy, healthy pet and when something goes wrong with your rat it can be quite worrying.
Rats are prone to respiratory issues, you can reduce the possibility of this by making sure their environment is adequate. Don’t use glass tanks to house rats. Make sure they aren’t in any draughts or windows. Don’t use heavy scented fragrances in the same room as your rats like melts, candles air fresheners etc. Use suitable bedding that is dust free, large flake wood chipping, paper based products are suitable if they don’t contain bicarbonate of soda and are dust free suitable for small rodents.
Mites can become an issue with a rat that is under the weather. You may see them in your rats fur or notice excessive scratching and in worse cases scabbing or damage around the ears or neck of your rat. There are suitable over the counter products for mild cases but it is always best to seek the advice of a Vet.
Rats do chew this is to keep their teeth at a comfortable length, check your rats teeth regularly to make sure they are straight and look healthy. Rats teeth are naturally yellow/orange colour and white teeth can be a sign of problems. Ensure you have things that you don’t mind rats chewing in their cage to help them keep them down. Apple wood sticks are ideal try and avoid salt licks etc are this will add too much salt in their diet.
When you handle rats you’ll be able to tell if their nails are becoming too long. if you have sensitive skin this may become a problem for you more than the rat. You can trim rats nails to keep them at a suitable length, you do have to be careful when trimming them as they do have a vein in them that can be knocked if you take them too short. A well handled rat will allow you to do this without an issue. You can include a ”lava ledge” which can help keep their nails down or a brick under their water bottles or food bowls can help as well.
Rats feet are soft and if you have shelves or a base of the cage that is wire it is best to cover it with fabric or stick on tiles. This is due to constant walking on wire can cause sores on their feet and let bacteria in causing a problem called bumblefoot. Just think you wouldn’t want to walk barefoot on a metal grid all day, and neither do your rats.
People say that rats will eat anything, technically this is true but it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is good or healthy for them. Just like you, your rat will benefit from a healthy balanced diet. Avoid high salt, high sugar high fat foods.
Its good to have a good base or daily food, this can be made up of a pellet type food (not suitable as their only food) and also a museli food suitable for rats. There are plenty of pages which tell you how to mix your own food that give a healthy nutritious and interesting food for your rats. Avoid foods for hamsters, guinea pigs or rabbits as they may contain elements that rats cannot digest.
It is then important to supplement this with fresh foods during the week. There are lots of veggies and fruits that you can feed and rather than list everything here a simple google search will list everything you can feed them.
A healthy diet will lead to healthy rats. Do not over feed your rats as they can become obese, especially in older or neutered rats. Females need to be sleek but have a good weight and the males must be muscular without being too fat.